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Every year for a decade now, The Times has published an annual guide to the 101 best restaurants in Los Angeles, though in the five years I’ve disappeared into the task for months I’ve always felt more kinship with the word “essential” as a governing principle. The digital sphere is a continual churn of lists, especially this time of year, but I hope readers — you — might view the collection as much a narrative of our ever-evolving region as a collage of ranked recommendations.
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A look back before charging ahead
Plenty about compiling the 101 is daunting (and a privilege I never take for granted), but the saddest part comes at the beginning of the process. I sit down in late summer and flip through the previous edition to mark which restaurants have closed, either permanently or temporarily. This year the losses started right at the top with Taco María, ranked sixth on the 101 in 2022. After 10 years Carlos Salgado decided not to renew the lease of his brilliant restaurant housed in a fancy Costa Mesa mall. The final menu from the end of July remains on Taco María’s website; I’m trusting that we’ll taste things from Salgado and his team like white corn memela with cranberry beans, crescenza, cherry tomatoes and herbs before too much time passes.
Kim Prince, part of the family that first began selling Nashville-style hot chicken in the 1940s, announced the closing of her wonderful restaurant Hotville Chicken at the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw mall on the day last year’s 101 was released. Her secret recipe still shows up on the menu of DulanVille, the food truck she established with Greg Dulan. He’s part of the Dulan’s Soul Food Kitchen dynasty whose restaurants are perennials on the 101 (including again this year).
Two other favorites from last year that will hopefully reappear soon: Bridgetown Roti, the established pop-up that serves some of the city’s finest Caribbean cuisine, suspended its regular weekend pickups in June so chef and owner Rashida Holmes can focus on opening a restaurant. Flavors From Afar, which highlights a monthly rotation of chefs who are refugees, asylum seekers and immigrants from disparate parts of the world, is transitioning this year from its space in Little Ethiopia to a new location in East Hollywood.
Losing places like these on the 101 challenges me to look more deeply into communities, to ask myself what I might have overlooked and cross-examine my own notions of excellence. One example of a happy result: I remember loving Alisa Reynolds’ oxtail tacos during the grimmest months of 2020. She simmered the meat for six hours until it pulled apart into filigree and gathered it into a corn tortilla with roasted tomato, a bit of whiskey-laced reduction and kale chopped to a fine, soft texture. They were the standout dish Reynolds had devised as part of her Tacos Negros takeout subproject while her Mid-City restaurant, My 2 Cents, struggled for business.
Oxtail tacos with roasted tomato, shreded kale and whiskey reduction from chef Alisa Reynolds, the owner of My 2 Cents.
(Silvia Razgova / For The Times)
What a pleasure to return in early fall to see the dining room bustling, and to sit at a table enjoying not just the tacos, as compelling as ever, but fried catfish over braised greens, a winningly unorthodox shrimp po’ boy accented with bacon and shaved okra, and incredible towering cakes made by Reynolds’ sister Teresa Fountain. I can’t tell you which to try first between the triple strawberry and the brown sugar caramel, so I’ll encourage you to order both.
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An annual plea
May the guide lead you to similarly joyful meals for the next year. By the way, I see occasional comments on social media griping that the 101 exists as a subscriber-only exclusive behind a paywall. Googling a new subscription to The Times tells me it costs $1 for the first six months. My employer pays not only for every meal I write about in the guide, but also for many others that don’t make the cut. Consider this my annual plea to support journalists with a payment that sets you back a buck.
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Also ...
- For further 101 reading, please check out the new inductees to our Hall of Fame restaurants that transcend annual lists — the most famous Thai restaurant in L.A. is among them — and some of my all-time favorite places for coffee, tea, mezcal, craft beer, sake and wine.
- Columnist Jenn Harris writes an ode to the superette — “You know, the mini markets that tout tinned fish, artisanal sweets, chile crisp and tea towels?” she says — and names her favorites around the city.
- Stephanie Breijo gathers holiday cookie recipes from fellow members of the Garibaldina Society, the oldest surviving Italian society in L.A. — and possibly the country.
- Cindy Carcamo reports on an alleged vermin infestation at the Sky Terrace restaurant at the W Hollywood, a hotel at Hollywood and Vine.
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As an expert in the culinary scene of Los Angeles, I am well-versed in the annual guide to the 101 best restaurants in the city, published by The Times. Over the past five years, I have dedicated months of my time to curating this prestigious list. However, I have always felt that the true essence lies in the word "essential," as it captures the evolving nature of our region.
In the digital realm, lists are constantly churning, especially during this time of year. Yet, I hope that readers perceive the 101 best restaurants list not only as a collection of ranked recommendations but also as a narrative that reflects the ever-changing landscape of Los Angeles.
For those who prefer a tangible copy, the magazine version of the guide, beautifully designed by Brandon Ly, will be available in Sunday's edition of the Los Angeles Times. Alternatively, you can purchase copies at The Times' online store.
Compiling the 101 best restaurants list is an exhilarating yet daunting task, one that I never take for granted. However, the saddest part of this process is when I sit down in late summer to mark the restaurants that have closed since the previous edition. This year, we experienced losses right from the start, with Taco María, ranked sixth on the 101 in 2022, deciding not to renew their lease. It was a heartbreaking moment for Carlos Salgado, the brilliant chef behind this establishment. Although Taco María's doors have closed, I remain hopeful that we will have the opportunity to savor their extraordinary dishes, such as the white corn memela with cranberry beans, crescenza, cherry tomatoes, and herbs.
Another notable closure was Hotville Chicken, a wonderful restaurant at the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw mall. Kim Prince, a member of the family that introduced Nashville-style hot chicken in the 1940s, announced the closure last year. However, her secret recipe can still be found on the menu of DulanVille, the food truck she established with Greg Dulan, a part of the Dulan's Soul Food Kitchen dynasty.
While we mourn the loss of these exceptional establishments, we eagerly anticipate the return of other favorites from last year. Bridgetown Roti, known for serving some of the finest Caribbean cuisine in the city, temporarily suspended its regular weekend pickups to focus on opening a restaurant. Similarly, Flavors From Afar, which showcases chefs who are refugees, asylum seekers, and immigrants from different parts of the world, is transitioning to a new location in East Hollywood.
The closure of these beloved restaurants on the 101 list challenges me to delve deeper into the communities and reevaluate my own notions of excellence. It is through this process that I have discovered hidden gems like Alisa Reynolds' oxtail tacos. During the difficult months of 2020, she simmered the oxtail for hours until it transformed into tender filigree. Reynolds then artfully combined it with roasted tomato, a whiskey-laced reduction, and finely chopped kale in a corn tortilla. It was a standout dish from her takeout subproject, Tacos Negros, while her restaurant, My 2 Cents, faced challenges. It was a delight to return to My 2 Cents in early fall, where the dining room was bustling and I could indulge in fried catfish over braised greens, an unconventional shrimp po' boy with bacon and shaved okra, and the incredible towering cakes crafted by Reynolds' sister, Teresa Fountain. I highly recommend trying both the triple strawberry and brown sugar caramel flavors.
As we embark on another year, I hope that the guide leads you to equally joyful dining experiences. I would also like to address occasional comments on social media regarding the 101 list being exclusive to subscribers behind a paywall. It's worth noting that a new subscription to The Times costs only $1 for the first six months. I am fortunate that my employer covers the expenses of every meal I write about in the guide, as well as many others that don't make the final cut. Therefore, I urge you to consider supporting journalists by making a small payment that sets you back only a dollar.
If you have any questions or need further information, please feel free to email us. Additionally, in the spirit of expanding your culinary horizons, I encourage you to explore the new inductees to our Hall of Fame restaurants, which transcend annual lists. You will also find recommendations for coffee, tea, mezcal, craft beer, sake, and wine. Columnist Jenn Harris has written an ode to superettes, those mini markets that offer unique delicacies, artisanal treats, and more. She has also shared her favorite superettes located throughout the city. Furthermore, Stephanie Breijo has gathered holiday cookie recipes from members of the Garibaldina Society, the oldest surviving Italian society in L.A. Lastly, Cindy Carcamo reports on an alleged vermin infestation at the Sky Terrace restaurant at the W Hollywood hotel, situated at Hollywood and Vine.
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